Musings on the recipes, prep and supper:

I would say that our inaugural Bretagne supper was a hit – I tested the Poulet à la Bretonne on my husband the week before and I am SO glad that I did. The recipe calls for a dry cider. I am not a cider expert and when faced with 20+ ciders that I had never tried, using my “wine skills” I assumed a cider with a high alcohol would be dry – mais non! The night before our supper, I visited Raging Cider and Mead Co. located in San Marcos, CA and tasted through eight different ciders. Dave was a huge help and we zeroed in on a cider made from the Stayman Winesap apple. The recipe definitely needs a DRY cider so test drive some ciders before spending all of the time and effort preparing the dish. It will pay dividends!

I had two organic chickens prepped by my butcher for the supper club so we didn’t have to cut the chicken into serving pieces. I divided our supper club guests into two groups of four to prepare two entree’s – everyone participated. It was a little slow to get the two chickens adequately browned (I was using two Le Creuset pots) – I think this was because the students were not used to the browning technique.

I also made the Breton Pâté de Campagne ahead of time – thank goodness. There is a tremendous amount of time spent chopping the pork. I went to several local butchers and had to make some substitutions – our local butchers did not have pork belly or pork liver. I substituted pork butt and calves liver (I figured this was mild like pork).

I did use the “quatre epices”/spice blend recommended but only added a few pinches as I was worried that the spice blend would over power the Pâté and I was happy that I did so.

Only hiccup – our local utility cut off power for 24 hours (due to our “red flag” alert status) the day I was planning to cook the pâtés so I had to bring all of my ingredients to my friend Eileen’s house. Fortunate for me, she loves to cook and had all of the terrines prepped and her Cuisinart at the ready to further process the pork mixture. We decided to make three different terrines – one with the spice mixture in the Bretonne style and one with pistachios and the other with figs. I am sure that we will find an excuse to enjoy these pâtés in the near future!

I did serve an amazing county levain with salted butter from Brittany with the pâté course and I will say it was worth every penny to splurge on the French butter. My friends were all in!

Tracking down the St. Paulin and Timanoix French cheeses proved extremely challenging. I am not sure they export out of the EU or if they do, they are likely to be in east coast markets.

The galettes with salted caramel sauce were amazing and actually were a perfect ending to the meal – not too sweet, and the buckwheat galettes provided a wonderful nuttiness. A few flakes of Maldon salt on the caramel definitely elevated the flavors.

I made the salted caramel sauce in advance so the students all prepared a galette or two. I did a mixture of 50/50 buckwheat flour and all-purpose flour. I also used 800ML of water, not the full litre recommended. Because there is no butter or oil in the batter, be generous with buttering the crepe pan.

With respect to the ciders and cider pairings, the Kystin “Opalyne Brut” was the standout among the Aperitif selections and the Ciderier du Leuer “Cidre BrutBrut” was spot on with the Poulet à la Bretonne and the Kystin Cider “Chatainge Apple and Chestnut Cider was the BOMB with the galettes! If you are a cider fan – check out www.pressthenpress.com for imported French ciders – they have an amazing collection and Eric is super helpful.

The Recipes

Poulet à la Bretonne (1 ½ hours)

from Steve Groves (noted London chef)

https://www.greatbritishchefs.com/chefs/steve-groves

Ingredients

free-range chicken, jointed into 2 thighs, 2 drumsticks, 4 wing joints and 4 breast pieces

oil, for frying (I like to use Avocado oil or olive oil)

sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

1 1/16 oz of unsalted butter

sprig of fresh thyme

carrots, peeled and cut into 2cm chunks

leeks, cut into 2cm rounds

medium onion, diced

1/2 oz of plain flour

2/3 pint of dry cider

3 1/2 oz of crème fraîche

2 teaspoons of Dijon mustard

parsley, to garnish

Method

1. Preheat an oven to 350 F/170 C. Place a large ovenproof pan or casserole dish over a medium high heat, then add a splash of oil. Season the chicken pieces all over with salt and pepper, then add to the pan until golden all over. You want to caramelize the chicken relatively slowly, especially on the skin, to get a good, deep flavor. If the pan is too hot it will scorch the meat and ruin the flavor of the sauce oil, for frying.

· free-range chicken, jointed into 2 thighs, 2 drumsticks, 4 wing joints and 4 breast pieces

· sea salt

· freshly ground black pepper

2. Once the chicken pieces are browned and well caramelized, add the butter and thyme. Once the butter is melted, baste the chicken repeatedly for a couple of minutes, then remove the meat from the pan and set aside on a plate

· 1 1/16 oz of unsalted butter

· 1 sprig of fresh thyme

3. Add the leeks, onion and carrots to the pan and cook for 5 minutes until beginning to soften. Stir the flour in so it absorbs the fat, then gradually stir the cider into the pan, ensuring the flour doesn’t form lumps. Increase the heat to high and reduce the cider by two-thirds

4. Add the crème fraiche and bring the mixture to the boil, then stir in the mustard and arrange the chicken pieces over the top, skin-side up. Transfer to the oven and cook uncovered for 20–25 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Garnish with parsley and serve straight from the casserole dish at the table with potatoes of your choice.

Breton Pâté de Campagne (5-7 hours)

Pâté Breton is seasoned with onions and a home-made spice mix and uses locally sourced heritage pork finished on walnuts. We are going to have to improvise a bit here in Southern California and find locally sourced pork. We had to substitute some of the meats (see below).

Ingredients

250g boned pork shoulder, cut into a 1 inch/3 cm dice (we used pork shoulder)

250g boned belly of pork, cut into a 1 inch/3 cm dice (we used pork butt)

250g smoked streaky bacon, cut into a 1 inch/3 cm dice

300g pig’s liver, cut into a 1 inch/3 cm dice (we used veal liver)

1 medium organic or free range egg

6 pinches Salt

1 pinch freshly ground black pepper

2 pinches Five-Spice powder (pinch cloves, pinch ground cloves, pinch ground pepper,

½ tsp fresh thyme leaved, finely chopped

50ml white wine, boiled for 30-40 seconds to evaporate the alcohol

2 tbsp Cognac

20g pistachios, almonds, hazelnuts, or walnuts (we chose pistachios)

1 fresh bay leaf

2 sprigs fresh thyme

Method

Preheat the oven to 350 F/170 C

Chopping the meats

In a food processor, using the pulse button, chop the pork shoulder until you have a coarse mince texture. Using a spatula, transfer the meat from the food processor to a large mixing bowl. Proceed in the same way with the belly of pork, the smoked streaky bacon and the liver, combining all of the meats together in the bowl.

Preparing the pâté:

Add the egg, salt, pepper, juniper berries, five-spice powder, chopped thyme, white wine, cognanc and nuts to the bowl and vigorously mix everything together with a large wooden spoon.

Filling the terrine:

Tip the mixture into a 23 x 7.5 cm terrine mold and with the edge of a spoon, press and pack the meat down into the mold.

Tap the terrine a couple of times on the work surface to ensure that there are no air pockets, and that the meat is compact. Press the bay leaf and thyme sprigs onto the top of the mixture.

Cooking the pâté:

Cover loosely with a piece of buttered greaseproof paper, then place the terrine in a roasting tin and slide it onto the oven shelf.

Pour boiling water into the roasting tin until it reaches two-thirds of the way up the side of the terrine mold.

Cook for one (1) hour. The top of the pate should be slightly rounded. The inside should be 160 degrees/65-70c. If you have a temperature probe, check this.

Remove the terrine from the oven and leave it to cool at room temperature for 2 hours then cover with cling wrap. Refrigerate for two days so the flavors develop.

To serve, did a knife blade in hot water and slide it against the sides of the terrine to loosen the pate. Turn the terrine upside down on a tray and tap the base to free it from its mold. Carve generous slices onto a plate and enjoy!

Apple Cider Vinaigrette

If I’m making a salad in the fall, there’s a good chance that I’ll drizzle an apple cider vinegar dressing on top. Maybe it’s because fall is apple season, but there’s something irresistible about the combination of apple cider vinegar and autumn foods. In a hearty salad or side dish, an apple cider vinaigrette adds a tangy pop of flavor that brings these sweet ingredients to life.

Ingredients

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon maple syrup or honey

garlic clove, grated

¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Method

In a small bowl, whisk together the apple cider vinegar, maple syrup, garlic, mustard, salt, and pepper. Drizzle in the olive oil while whisking and continue to stir until the dressing is emulsified. Alternatively, combine everything in a Mason jar with a tight-fitting lid, and shake to combine. Season to taste and enjoy!

Galettes Bretonnes (1 hour 10 min.)

Ingredients

This recipe makes 8-12 galettes so we are going to double the recipe.

Buckwheat flour (250g/.5 lb for 8-12 crepes depending on your pan size – we are going to use 250 g of buckwheat flour and 250 g of all-purpose flour)

2 eggs

Water (1/2 liter for every ~6 glasses for 250g/0.5lb of flour) – use 800ML

Salt (one teaspoon for 250g/0.5lb of flour) – we will use 2 teaspoons

Melted butter for cooking or olive oil

The Method

The dough

  1. In a bowl with buckwheat flour (250g), add water (700ml – 3 glasses) progressively and salt.
  2. Whisk until the dough is smooth and sticks to a spoon. Leave it to rest for one hour.

Cook the Galette

  1. Make sure the pan is hot.
  2. Melt some butter (or use olive oil for the dairy-free version) and spread it everywhere in the pan, including the sides.
  3. Add the dough into the pan so that you have a thin layer covering the pan.
  4. Leave it to cook for about 30 seconds on both sides.
  5. Then, you can add fillings at a lower heat.

Salted Caramel Sauce (20 min.)

Ingredients

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup unsalted butter

¾ cup heavy cream/whipping cream (warmed)

½ teaspoon “fleur de sel” (or Maldon, Celtic sea salt)

Method

1. Chop butter into chunks and place in heavy saucepan with sugar.

  1. Measure out cream in a glass Pyrex measuring cup and warm in microwave for about 30 seconds (do not let it boil), set aside.
  2. Using a wooden spoon, stir the butter and sugar constantly over a medium heat until the butter has melted and sugar dissolves. This should take about 10 minutes.
  3. As soon as the butter/sugar are a nice deep golden/straw caramel color (don’t wait until it is amber, otherwise the sauce will be bitter), add the warm cream stirring constantly. Turn down the heat, keep stirring until thickened and add the salt. After about 5 minutes, pour directly into a sauce container or sterilized jars. Leave to cool then seal.

The Ciders

Aperitif “Trio of Ciders”

Kystin Cider – Opalyne Brut – Favorite of the three ciders in the pairing

This traditional Brut Cidre is produced in Brittany, France, from apples grown in the Pays D’Auge area of Calvados. Produced by Sasha Crommar, this cider is a wonderful example of the artisanal approach that Sasha brings to each of his ciders. Subtle yet commanding, it fulfills all your expectations for a classic Brittany Brut cider.

Tasting Notes: Beautiful golden color. A hint of demi-sec at the first sip gives way to a fully dry and elegant experience on the finish. Serve chilled in white wine glasses or stemmed cider glasses.

Pairings: A versatile cidre that goes with many dishes at lunch or dinner. Try it with all your favorite meals.

Apple Varieties: Primarily doux (sweet) and doux-amers (bittersweet) apples are used in its production.

Herout – Micro Cuvee No. 1 – Calvados Barrel Aged 2020, Still

Cider made as a blend of French cider apples, primarily Rouge de Canepie, fermented slow over 3+ months in French oak barrels and then aged in Calvados barrels, which reinforce the cider in alcohol and tannins. Balanced by a fruity finish. Delicious! Certified Organic. 2020 harvest year. This edition is still (uncarbonated). The same cider is also available sparkling. A beautiful duo to try side-by-side.

Tasting Notes: Fresh apple juice on the nose and at first sip, followed by notes of honey dew melon and cantaloupe, pear drop, fresh rain, and twigs/apple stem on the palate. Dried apple skin notes and drying tannins on the finish.

Ferme de Port Coustic – Poire French Perry

Sparkling cider from Brittany made with apples grown in Morbihan, France. Made “the old fashioned-way” with vertical presses. Everything is done with old machines that favor the quality of the juice, but also require a lot of manpower. No sweetening. Unfiltered. No added sulfites.

Ferme de Port Coustic is based on the island of Groix, just off the coast of Brittany in France. Noémie Vallélian and Mathieu Le Saux are developing a vinyard in Groix, and in the meantime are already making cider, perry, lambig (apple brandy made to Breton standards) and aperitifs (including Pommeau de Bretagne). They also produce a beer fermented using the lees (yeast sediment) from one of their cider ferments. Their ciders are made true to Breton/Brittany traditions. Ferme de Port translates to Port Farm, their farm is named for the area on Groix island in which they’re located.

Entrée Cider

Ciderier du Leuer – Cidre BrutBrut (Brittany, France) – A WINNER!!

BrutBrut is an extra-brut cider. Fruity, slight minerality, with good length and liveliness on the palate. Smooth bitterness and nice complexity.

Cidre BrutBrut is the most dry of the cider offerings from Cidrerie du Leguer – a French cider maker from the Brittany region in Northwestern France. This cider is made with a blend of mostly bittersweet (50%) apple varieties, with some sweet (25%), tart/sharp (20%), and bittersharp (5%). 100% Organic apples grown on their estate, allowed to ripen for 3-4 weeks after harvest. The apples are shredded and allowed to oxidize prior to pressing to soften some of the astringency from the tannic apples. Fermented naturally, and ‘low and slow’ in their cold winter conditions for 5 or more months. Keeved as a form of natural filtration before bottling in the Spring. Secondary fermentation in bottle for a natural sparkle.

This Cidre de Bretagne vintage is from the 2021 harvest season.

From Cedric, the cider maker: “Take it as it is and with what you want. No protocol, it can be enjoyed as an aperitif, meal or dessert. Fruity, slightly mineral, good length on the palate. Lively on the palate.”

About Cidrerie du Leguer: From the Bretagne (Brittany) region of France, Cedric and his wife Kate are a relatively young cider making duo. They began making cider after discovering a somewhat abandoned cider farm near Lannion in Northwestern France. Their first commercially released vintage was in 2016. Their orchards are all managed organically, with little more than pruning the trees and mowing the grass done to maintain them. They grow a variety of native French cider apple varieties, including Marie Menard, Jeanne Renard, Fréquin Rouge, Belle fille de la Manche, Kermerrien, Freilach, Peau de Chien, Bedan, Douce Coët Ligné, Locart vert, Petit Jaune, Rouget de Dol, and more. All apples are harvested from the ground and then allowed to mature in wood crates before pressing. 100% native fermentation with no additions. Their ciders are all keeved for a natural filtration and then bottle conditioned. Common amongst Breton cider, theirs all range from Dry, to Extra Dry. Each cuvée is blended by Cedric to his preference of taste.

Cheese and Dessert Course Cider

Kystin Cider – Chatainge Apple and Chestnut Cider – “the BOMB”!!

This fascinating elixir is made by co-fermenting apples and organic chestnuts. The result is a sparkling cider with delicate chestnut notes. Why Cuvee XVII? Because there are 17 ingredients: 16 varieties of apples plus the 17th element, the chestnut!

Tasting Notes: his sparkling cider drinks semi-sweet, though the sweetness level from the juice is actually more semi-dry, the full body, fruitiness, and mild cocoa and candied chestnut essence increase the overall sweetness perception. Nutty and caramel aromatics draw you in for an intriguing balance of fresh green apple notes, ripe bittersweet apple notes, chestnut flavor, and soft amaretto nuttiness.

Awards:

· Double Gold Medal, CiderCraft Magazine 2018, Best Specialty Cider

· Gold Medal, 85/100 points, Le Guide Gilbert & Gaillard

Pairings: A perfect accompaniment to holiday meals, delicious with creamy cheese or Gruyere style cheeses, poes well with desserts: pumpkin pie, apple pie.